Saturday, June 18, 2011

Thoughts on waves (not those kind)

One of my favorite things this whole trip has just been to wave to people--many people some days--and see each wave back with a big smile on their face.  Tandem bikes make people stop what they are doing, look up, and smile. Most of the time it's people working in their yards--women and children in rainboots working in their garden patch, old men on their "lawn tractors," people hoeing and shoveling (people are always out working in these provinces!) and fisherman just in for the day.  It just feels good to make these little connections with people.  I feel so blessed to be able to look in the eye and share a joy-filled moment.  I like to think maybe some of them are inspired to do something they've always wanted to do when they see us pass on our laden bike.  I've thought about how it's neat that this summer I'll be "sharing a wave" with people all across Canada.  At one point I thought, maybe I should count, but then I thought, no, I want to wave to each person and savor that moment for what it is, not just be thinking of numbers.  Anyway, that's something that makes me happy these days.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Newfoundland -- Part 2

 Our good friends Doug and Betti Hogg from Vancouver (that we met back in P.E.I. when they invited us into their camper for lunch on a rainy day) have run into us in every province since!  This night (we were going to meet them in this area because they offered to take us up to the "viking village" the next day) they met us on the side of the road with dinner--steak and potatoes and salad and steamed vegetables!!!--that they roasted in these makeshift ovens :)  We were greeted with an Inookshook (rock man) by the road and ushered into this old Seining boat they have set up with a picnic table inside.  Nice folks : )
 On our "field trip" by car up to the very Northern part of Newfoundland we went through St. Anthony and ate at a nice place at Fox Point.
 The "lightkeeper," Dennis, brought us up in the tower and explained a few things about the lighthouses in modern times.  We were his first visitors of the season!!
 Spotted a few of the icebergs that float down from Greenland.
 This replica of a viking cargo ship was at the "viking village" that we visited.  It was really neat to learn more about their ship building/voyaging techniques and compare it with the Hawaiian vessels I have learned about.
 This "viking," "Sven," taught me a fun viking game.  We want to replicate the board back home.
 Beautiful sunset in Port Saunders that night!
 And a Great camping spot too!!!  (a tip from a really nice couple who run a B&B we actually got to know quite well the next day).
 Tons of shell fossils in these rocks!
 After coming down to the beach and inviting us to breakfast (!) they invited us to come out on the boat!  It was a Beautiful sunny day!!  That's Kathy Patey and her daughter Lonni (David is driving the boat).
 We pulled a lobster pot -- lucky to get a nice big one in there -- and David explained how the system works.
 Hiked over to the other side of Keppel island, a family favorite of the Pateys.
 Another lighthouse over 100 years old.
 Keith had to swim in Northern Newfoundland!

 Proof I did it too.
 Oh, and back on this side of the island too.
 Crazy. 
 David cooked up the lobster we brought up (boiled in salt water is better than steamed in fresh water we found) in a pot over a bonfire and split it between us  :)  So delicious!!!
 Wanting to contribute to the BBQ feast the Patey's were fixing for us that evening, we went to the wharf to ask if we could buy about 10 lbs of Shrimp, they handed us a 25 lb. bag and said "Take it and run" with a big grin.  We couldn't believe how generous and kind everyone we've met here is!  Sadly, we couldn't eat it all.
 : )
Setting the Lobster pots in the early morning in front of the beach we spent the second night on.
 This is one of the only places in North America from which you can see two lighthouses.

The whole coast was soo glorious.  We couldn't take many pictures while trying to cover distance biking, and the pictures can't truly capture it.  You'll have to see the Newfoundland coast for yourself someday : )

Newfoundland - Part 1 : )

 Our first camp site in Newfoundland - not far from where we got in on the ferry.
 The second night, after a beautiful sunny day, we camped at a lake ("pond" as Newfoundlanders would call it) FILLED with frogs and toads (mostly toads).  We bathed in the lake and took a ton of pictures of mating toads -- too indecent to post ;)

 A forest in our tent
 Wiltondale-- a tiny town with wonderful people.  Stopped in at the "gas bar" at the end of a cold day and were intived to camp in the grass there.  Fae, from the gas bar, brought us down a huge pot of hot chocolate!!  On the left is Jeff, a solo bike tourer from Quebec.  Awesome guy who stayed with us that night and biked with us the next day.
This is our dinner.  It's a rabbit.  We bought it frozen at the gas station for five dollars.  It was tough, but tasty... quite a a bit of meat actually.  This gas station also had pickled beets and jams on the shelves along with the canned stuff, fox and coyote snares for sale, handmade snoeshoes, and other wonders!!  I bought a hand knit wool hat there with whales around it.  I love it.
 Gros Morne National Park.  This day was AMAZING... SO beautiful.  One of my favorites for sure.  We passed at least six moose.  Mist hung around the mountains and cliffs.  It was magical.

 Lots of little fishing stations like this one.  Breakwater made with beautiful smooth rocks instead of the blasted stuff.  Old lobster pots, boats, sheds everywhere. Old but still used.
 "Ethie" -- shipwrecked in 1919 in a terrible storm. 



 "Arches"
 Oh, I Love the rocks here!!





Takin' a dip.

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Nova Scotia

 On the Ferry on the way to Caribou, Nova Scotia.
 So... we picked up some pretty rediculous raingear for me (we would have brought some, but didn't plan on so much rain--not usual for this season and area).  It's kept me warm and dry ever since.  This was a camp spot we chose not far from the ferry terminal.  That night was our first real experience with black flies.  Not too fun.  Woke up to a rainy day.  We split up with Brad and Mary this day and were apart for the next week (we headed on up to Cape Breton to do the Cabot trail and they spent some time resting Brad's injured knee).
 Major cormorant rookery right off the main highway
 Start of Cape Breton--a lady gardening tipped us off about this old rainroad line maintained now as a hiking/biking trail.  We took it right along the coast this beautiful evening about 15 miles.  It was carved out to be super flat so we were able to avoid the hills of the road.
 I want my milk to come from here.  Darigold label farms.
 The weather was really nice for us a few days this week!  Rode up atop this hill/cliff and took a nice little nap in the sun. 

 Neat old churches.  It would be interesting to learn more about each one.
 We found this amazing campsite so easily at the end of a wonderful day.  Just slipped in to this abandoned campground right as we were about to start looking for a place to spend the night.
 A beautiful sight at the end of a long day's ride.
 Near the start of the world famous Cabot Trail.  Check out those HILLSSS!!!!!!!  We climbed two mountains about 1,400 feet each that day-- 17% grade in some spots!!!  Keith said it was the hilliest day he has ever had so far--now we do not fear hills.  We felt pretty tough.  On the ride down the backsides of these mountains (we got up to 51 mph at one point--around sharp bends, with cars coming) I nearly wet my pants.  The adrenaline was rushing through me.  Had to lay on the ground and just was so glad to be alive.  I trusted Keith though--good things or else I would have walked down the mountain.  (Note the Moose in the bottom corner).
 Beauty on Nova Scotia's Cabot Trail.
 Our ending place for the night--Black Brook.  We came at a suggestion of a very kind old lady we met Mariam Organ--who has lived in village Neils Harbor all her life, whose father and brothers, husband and sons are all fisherman.
 The "Rizelle" stick I found... demonstrating witch spells.
 Set the tent up in the three sided shelter she told us about.  It was pecfet that we were there--apparent during the wind, rain, massive thundering lightning storm that night.
 Misty morning.
 Shortest ferry ride ever.. no more than 100 feet.  Saved us 10 miles of biking that day.
Stopping in at the "Bus Cafe" for some fries.